FORMULATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF SKIN REJUVENATING MULTIPLE EMULSIONS LOADED WITH BOTANICAL EXTRACTS

Abstract

Background and Aims: Antioxidants are being extensively explored for their cutaneous benefits. Green tea and sacred lotus are popular antioxidants since ancient times. Aim of this study was to explore cutaneous benefits of these historic plants after formulating them in a novel carrier system. Methods: After successive extractions of antioxidants from lotus and green tea, their antioxidant activities were measured through DPPH antioxidant assay. Extracts were encapsulated in W/O/W type multiple emulsions. To obtain multiple emulsions having long-term shelf storage stability, various hydrophilic emulsifiers were tried along with polymeric emulsifier cetyl dimethicone copolyol. The most suitable multiple emulsion with excellent skin compatibility have been used as carrier of extracts to the skin of healthy human subjects (n=33), after their informed consents. One group applied 5% green tea while a second group applied 5% lotus and a third group applied combination of both extracts on left cheeks once daily over a 60 days treatment course. A placebo multiple emulsion was applied on right cheek as control in all three groups. Non-invasive measurements were performed at specific time intervals using various biophysical techniques such Corneometry, Tewametry, Mexametry, Sebumetry and Skin profilometry. Results were justified through various statistical methods. Results: Green tea and lotus revealed strong antioxidant potentials and extracts were stable in a multiple emulsion, which showed shelf storage stability of 1 year. Furthermore, all the formulations subjected to patch test were skin compatible and multiple emulsions with combination of extracts showed superior skin compatibility IX profile. Results obtained through efficacy studies showed that green tea and lotus have strong skin rejuvenation potential by improving various parameters of skin physiology. For example (a) green tea and lotus improved barrier function of the skin (b) Interestingly all three formulations positively influenced in any way at some of the skin surface parameters (c) green tea plus lotus treatment found superior to placebo for its effectiveness on the skin’s melanin pigmentation whereas lotus treatment alone has remarkable effect than green tea alone (d) combined treatment with green tea and lotus has superior efficacy over green tea alone in sebum reduction. Overall, combined treatment found superior for its effects on healthy skin profile. Conclusions: It is concluded that, the synergistic effects of the lotus, together with the green tea, on various parameters of skin physiology appears due to constituents who have a potentiation effect. Key Words: Green tea, Lotus, Multiple emulsions, Suface Evaluation of Living Skin (SELS), Patch test, Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), Melanin, Erythema, Skin Sebum.